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Extra info for Underwater Photography (February 2002)

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The phenomenon although appearing bright to the human eye is low in power to the camera so you will find that you have to get your flash gun very close, working 1:1 or 2:1 produces very good results. TTL doesn’t work well for these images so I would suggest using manual throughout. I found the trick is always to bracket your shots. Using a 400ASA ( Fuji Sensia) film, three images of the same subject shot at f8/ f11/f16 usually will produce one well exposed photograph. The fastest synchronized shutter speed will limit the amount of stray visible light getting to the film.

Again practice this technique in the pool before shooting in open water. Fluidity of movement again is a key to success. So in open water using a F90X with a Nikon 17 to 35mm zoom lense in a Sea and Sea housing attached to a lightweight tripod, Choose a likely subject, perhaps a diver in the doorway of a wreck. Set-up the tripod at a distance far enough away so that when you zoom on the focal point it stays within the picture area. Take an ambient light reading again with emphasis on a long shutter speed I find between 1 and 1/2 a second gives good results.

Visible light having a wavelength between about 400 and 700 nanometers. I needed to find a light source that could produce sufficient power in the 400 nanometer range. It was at this stage that Mark pointed me in the direction of the Nightsea web page. The basic kit contains :Ultra Blue Hand Torch- This allows you to find your subject An Exciter Filter- A custom made filter to go over your existing flashgun to allow only the wavelength you require to exit the gun. UwP 39 Above. Normal Light and Ultra Blue Light images of the same subject.

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